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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble shop securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.